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  • Two Thin Coats – First Impressions of Duncan Rhodes’ paint range!

    Two Thin Coats – First Impressions of Duncan Rhodes’ paint range!

    I waas very kindly sent a selection of Duncan Rhodes’ new(ish) paint range Two Thin Coats, from UK supplier Exit 23 games. They’re currently running a promotion on these where if you buy any 6 paints from Two Thin Coats or Turbo Dork you get the cheapest paint free, by the way. If you’d like to try them out yourself, please give my affiliate link a follow here! That said, they sent me these for free to try out, so I took to Twitch to give my live reactions to these paints. This isn’t a full range review, these impressions are based purely on my Twitch stream today (go back and watch the VOD if you can!)

    Firstly, I received a total of 10 of these 15ml pots – Dragons Gold, and three colour triads: Green (comprising Wyvern Green, Emerald Green, and Ethereal Green), Yellow (Dark Sun Yellow, Skulker Yellow, and Yellow Flame), and Red (Berseker Red, Sanguine Scarlet, and Demon Red).

    Whilst having a nice chat with the viewers, my first point was to test the coverage of the “base” versions of each triad on a test model. Above you can see Berserker Red, Dark Sun Yellow, and Wyvern Green. The Red covered excellently in 2 coats and is a deep maroon colour that reminds me of the old Mechrite Red from Citadel’s Foundation line. The yellow is very much like Averland Sunset from the current Citadel line with very similar coverage. This took 3-4 thin coats to get a smooth finish over the grey basecoat. As with all yellow paints, you’re probably best using it over white to get a strong bright finish. The green took 3 thin coats to get a nice even finish. This strongly resembles Caliban Green from Citadel and would be a great base colour for Dark Angels. The red and yellow paints both had a very flat, matte finish. The green has slightly more satin finish to my eyes which you can see from the brighter light reflections.

    Overall, these were strong base colours with a subtle saturation rather than being super bright. The Red is certainly closer to Khorne Red than something like Mephiston Red.

    Next I started picking out areas on each model with the two lighter tones of each colour. You can see each labelled in the image above. The yellows as expected took a few layers again to get a smooth solid colour, but hold up favourably compared to those in the Citadel line.

    The mid red is similar to Mephiston Red, but slightly darker. Demon Red is very similar to Evil Sunz Scarlet, and brings to mind the 90s Blood Angels orange-red armour. I liked this colour a lot.

    Emerald Green and Ethereal Green are roughly equivalent to Warpstone Glow and Moot Green from Citadel. The coverage on Ethereal Green did feel slightly better than Moot Green though. I think this would be an excellent triad to replac the citadel trio for Dark Angels if you wanted to change things up.

    I used the Dragon’s Gold upon the weapon of the Red warrior, with Retributor Armour from Citadel on the Yellow warrior. These two colours are extremely close – you’d struggle to tell them apart. I do think the Dragons Gold is smoother though, and had a more even colour after a single coat. I think it may well replace Retributor Armour for me just for ease of use.

    This is very much still early impressions so I will be integrating these into my paint flow long term to see how I get on with them. Stay tuned to my Twitch streams to keep up to date and see me using them live!

    I do however have one nitpick with these paints, despite the colours being excellent, and that’s with the dropper bottles. They do seem to be a little on the leaky side, with some of them having noticable outspillage even upon first use (see the Demon Red on the right of this image). So I’d recommend having a tissue on standby to wipe the caps if you have this particular issue.

    On the plus side, each pot contains 15ml which is 3ml more than the usual Citadel paint pot, and it feels/sounds like each also has a mixing ball inside so they are easy and quick to shake and get ready to use.

    I had a great time trying these paints out today and certainly would like to pick up some more of the colour triads in the near future. Thanks once again to Exit 23 Games for being absolute legends and providing me with these to try out.

    If you enjoyed this article and want to help support PaintSlam, please consider joining the Patreon! Your support helps me keep the lights on and keep producing content like this!

  • How I painted my Harbinger Of Nurgle in only one day!

    How I painted my Harbinger Of Nurgle in only one day!

    Games Workshop very kindly sent me a box of the new Dawnbringers “Phulgoth’s Shudderhood” box set, which contains the brand new plastic Harbinger of Nurgle as well as 5 Putrid Blightkinds and 2 Pusgoyle Blightlords.

    With time being at a premium thanks to a busy commission period for me and the house move, I wanted to get my Harbinger painted to a good standard but quickly enough that I could get it added into my army ASAP! In this short article I’ll show you how I did it! This won’t be a full step-by-step tutorial, although I am hoping to bring you more of those soon.

    I began with a full spray coat of Death Guard Green from a rattle can. This gave a nice unhealthy sickly colour to the whole model to start with. Next I moved onto the base colours.

    In order to move quickly, I focused on just getting base colours down for each area first. The cloth areas were painted over with Death Guard Green from the pot, the horse’s raggly hair and the raven were painted with Corvus Black.

    The wood & leathers were painted with Mournfang Brown and Thondia Brown, the armour with Incubi Darkness, silver areas with Leadbelcher, bronze with Screaming Bell, sore areas with Pink Horror, boils with Screaming Skull, and the horse fur with Rakarth Flesh.

    I also made a thin 50:50 mix of Corvus Black and Rakarth flesh to make a transitionary colour for the hair around the horse’s feet. I picked out the base with Mechanicus Standard grey for the rocks, Thondia Brown for the signpost, and Warboss Green for the slimy bitz.

    With all the base colours down, I moved onto an all-over Agrax Earthshade wash.

    This wash tied all the previous colours together and shaded them nicely. This would already be plenty nice for a tabletop gaming standard, but I decided to do some highlights to just bring out the details a little more and make the model feel more finished.

    Whilst this next step looks like a lot has happened, it’s actually surprisingly quick and simple to get to this level.

    I started with a drybrush over all the corvus black areas with Mechanicus Standard Grey, then a lighter drybrush with Dawnstone.

    The cloth areas got a highlight of 50:50 Death Guard Green and Krieg Khaki, before a few highlights of pure Krieg Khaki.

    The wood and leathers were highlighted by mixing Zandri Dust into the base colours and drybrushing and edge highlighting subtly with that mix.

    The silver areas got a quick highlight of Stormhost Silver, and I used thinned down Skrag Brown to add areas of rust.

    The armour was highlighted with Sotek Green. I also mixed a little more Warboss Green into Sotek and made a thin wash to apply over the bronze areas as verdigris.

    The sore areas got a quick layer of Berserker Bloodshade. I mixed a little Rakarth Flesh into this wash to make a sore color which I painted around the 3 big boils on the horses neck in a few thin layers.

    I overbrushed the front of the signpost with grey seer to make it look like it had been painted, then used Abaddon Black to write a town name on the signpost. 

    The rocky base got the same drybrush treatment as the horse hair.

    FInally I picked out a few extra details like the mushrooms on the base using Blood Angels Red contrast paint. I splodged a bit of Nurgles Rot onto the base and on the end of his scythe. And in the end, I was left with this result:

    I am very pleased with how the model came out for what was essentially just a one day semi-speed-paint. I hope this article encourages you to paint your own Harbinger or other Nurgle minis – why not share yours with the PaintSlam community in the discord?

    Thanks again to Games Workshop for sending me a free box of Dawnbringers: Phulgoth’s Shudderhood.

    If you enjoyed this article and want to help support PaintSlam, please consider joining the Patreon! Your support helps me keep the lights on and keep producing content like this!

  • An excellent way to paint your Gloom Trench 1926 Enforcers!

    An excellent way to paint your Gloom Trench 1926 Enforcers!

    This content was kindly sponsored by Fickle Dice Games, the creators of Gloom Trench 1926.
    You can find them on social media at:
    Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/fickle_dice_games/
    Facebook Group: https://www.facebook.com/groups/gloomtrench

    Gloom Tench 1926 is a game that takes the grim real world setting of WW1 and introduces an alternative history, where human science has resulted in a world overrun by fearsome monsters known as “The Scourge”. The upcoming Kickstarter for the Russians is due to launch at 1pm GMT (8am EST) on the 7th Feb 2023. You can follow this campaign right here!


    In this article I will show you how I painted an Enforcer for two of 3 Russian factions from the game. This painting article uses Citadel Colour paint names, although you can apply the same techniques to your own preferred paint brand.

    The model was attached with Superglue to a piece of slate which I had attached to the 25mm plastic base. We’ll be adding more detail to the base near the end. The model was primed with Mechanicus Standard Grey hobby spray. I then went over the model itself with the same colour from the pot, to ensure an even finish. The paint from the pot is also a slightly warmer tone.

    To bring out the details and highlight all the fur/wool parts of the model, it was given an all-over drybrush with Dawnstone. This was followed by a lighter drybrush with Screaming Skull, this off-white again adds a little warmth into the otherwise cool scheme.

    To fully bring out all the details, I then applied a shade of Nuln Oil over the whole miniature. This settles into the recesses without overly staining the raised areas. I used a little Basilicanum Grey to give a blacklining effect around the edges where fur meets coat trim and gloves to help define these edges.

    The gloves and coat trim were then painted with Thunderhawk Blue, a grey-blue paint perfect for our wintery themed model.

    The blue areas we just painted were given a shade with Gryph-Charger Grey contrast paint. When this was dry, an edge highlight was applied with Fenrisian Grey. I also picked out the knuckles and fingers a little with this colour.

    With the blue areas done, I moved onto the leathers by painting them all with Wyldwood contrast paint. This included the pouches, belts, and sword scabbard. This was highlighted with Steel Legion Drab.

    To finish the leathers, I used Karak Stone to apply smaller highlights to all these areas. It’s ok to be a little rough with this, since you will create a worn leather appearance.

    The face was started by giving it a paint with Tuskgor Fur, a nice reddish fleshtone. Be careful not to get it onto the fur areas!

    The raised parts of the face were painted with Cadian Fleshtone, followed by a smaller highlight with Kislev Flesh on the ends of the nose and cheeks. His moustache was painted with Corax White, implying age and experience on the battlefield.

    The eyes got a little bit of Wyldwood dropped into the pupils, then the whole face including moustache were washed with Targor Rageshade, a reddish-brown shade paint.

    I then picked out the badge on his hat, his shoulder plates, belt buckle and weapon handle with Blood Angels Red contrast paint. This contrasting red colour helps round out the colour scheme of the whole model.

    The red areas were given an edge highlight of Evil Sunz Scarlet, then a few dot highlights with the Cadian Fleshtone we used earlier on the face.

    All the metal areas such as the breastplate, pouch buttons, and pistol were given a coat of Leadbelcher.

    I used Nuln Oil over all the metal areas, then applied a little Basilicanum Grey contrast into any scratches and dings on the metals to add a bit of depth.

    The metallics were then given a highlight with Iron Hands Steel.

    It’s time to return to the base. I used a Vallejo textured paint to add in some battlefield mud over the flat areas and on some of the slate. You can use a Citadel textued paint like Stirland Mud if that’s what you’ve got to hand. Once dry, this was given a wash with Agrax Earthshade, before it got a drybrush of Screaming Skull.

    Finally, I applied snow effects with Citadel Valhallan Blizzard. This texture paint dries to give a realistic snowy-slush effect that really helps ground the model. The rim of the base was given a couple of layers of Abaddon Black to finish the model off and call it ready for battle.

    And that’s it! Our Russian Enforcer is now ready to face the horrors of the grim dark battlefields of 1926 and all the terrifying creatures that lurk on them! As you can see in the picture above, this scheme can be applied just as easily to both the 28mm and 15mm versions of the Gloom Trench 1926 miniatures.

    All that remains is to once again thank Fickle Dice Games for sponsoring this content, do go check them out and get ready for their kickstarter in the first week of February. Have fun painting your own miniatures!

    If you enjoyed this article and want to help support PaintSlam, please consider joining the Patreon! Your support helps me keep the lights on and keep producing content like this!